My provencal kitchen
The MARKET ALONG THE PAILLON
Early summer - baby broad beans and peas
How pleasant it was to stroll along the left bank of the river Paillon during
the first days of summer! The market began behind the Municipal Casino and
continued for nearly a kilometre, a mass of colour and freshness under the
plane trees. Many an old granny, faithful to a life-time of convivial market
life, would chat patiently behind a single cageot* of fresh wild salad, or
mesclun, a mixture, refreshingly bitter and tonic.
The Casino has been demolished to make way for gardens and fountains, the
erratic river has been covered and the markets have moved elsewhere. But the
first days of summer are still magic, even though it is rare nowadays to see
the peasants coming down from the hills around Nice, with their home-grown
vegetables, hens, rabbits and fresh eggs, as they used to do.
Fêvettes en salade - Young beans in salad
Freshly picked baby broad beans can still be found, tender and ready to be
thrown raw into a salad of chopped beet-root, hard-boiled eggs, tuna and finely
sliced onion.
Ragoût aux fêves - Broad bean stew
Bigger broad beans, still green and tender, can be used for this old Niçois
dish. Olive oil is gently heated. Add sliced onions and petit salé*.
When golden, throw in peeled and sliced potatoes. Cook for several minutes,
gently turning before adding shelled broad beans. The mixture is covered and
cooked very slowly, with frequent stirring to prevent sticking. A little water
can be added as necessary, along with salt, pepper, a bouquet garni and a
clove of garlic. Continue slowly until the vegetables are thoroughly cooked
but not mushy.
* Petit salé : salt pork, similar to bacon, sometimes smoked.